Ribbing and Cuffs

The numbers describe the knit — 2x2 alternates 2 wales knit and 2 wales purl (a chunkier, more pronounced rib); 2x1 alternates 2 knit and 1 purl (a finer, flatter rib). 2x2 is the streetwear default because the chunk reads as premium; 2x1 is used on sportier, closer-fitting hoodies.

• 2x2 — heavyweight fleece, oversized fits, boxy streetwear.
• 2x1 — mid-weight fleece, athletic hoodies, tighter cuff finish.
• 1x1 — rare; used on lightweight tech-fleece where you want almost no rib texture.

Pure cotton rib recovers poorly — cuffs bag by wear five. A 3–5% elastane content locks the recovery: after stretching, the fibre pulls the knit back to its original width. 5% is the streetwear ceiling — go higher and the rib gets rubbery and shiny.

Stretch a cuff to 200% of its resting width, hold 60 seconds, release, wait 60 seconds and measure again. Recovery ≥95% is retail-grade — the cuff looks new after wear. ≥90% is acceptable for promo. Below 90% is a fail. Repeat the test after 5 machine washes at 40°C.

• Rib not colour-matched to body — dye lots differ; always order rib and body from the same dye batch.
• Cuff too tight — end circumference below wrist size + 2cm cuts circulation and makes the hoodie hard to remove.
• Rib stretched at cover-stitch — rib must be held un-stretched at the seam or the finished cuff won't recover.
• No elastane on 500 GSM heavyweight rib — the sheer weight pulls the rib out of shape without recovery fibre.