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Manufacturing · Hoodie Encyclopedia

How Hoodies Are Manufactured

Every hoodie — pullover, zip-up, oversized, cropped — is built on the same eight-station cut-and-sew line. This is the walkthrough from raw fleece roll to polybagged, hangtagged, carton-ready garment.

Stations
8
Cut to carton
Panels
11–14
Body + hood + rib
Cycle
~22 min
Pullover, standard
AQL
2.5
Pre-shipment

Stage 1 — fabric relaxing

Fleece rolls arrive under loom tension. Left un-relaxed, the finished garment will shrink 5–8% in the first wash. Rolls are spread flat and rested 24 hours in a climate-controlled room (20°C / 65% RH) before cutting so the yarn recovers its natural loft.

Stage 2 — spreading & cutting

CAD-graded markers are printed and laid over 30–50 ply spread stacks. A straight-knife or automated cutter follows the marker. Grainline is locked to the roll direction — cross-grain panels bias-twist after the first wash.

  • Marker efficiency: 82%+ on 280gsm French terry.
  • Bundle tags — every cut piece is numbered so a size-M front panel never joins an L sleeve.
  • Fusible interlining is cut for the placket and hood facing on premium builds.

Stage 3 — panel prep & decoration

Screen print and DTF run on flat front panels before assembly — a curved shoulder is impossible to register. Embroidery can go pre- or post-assembly; chest hits usually pre, sleeve hits usually post.

Stage 4 — body assembly

Shoulder seams close first on a 4-thread overlock. Sleeve caps set into the armhole. Side seams and sleeve inseams close in one continuous run. Kangaroo pocket is set-in or jetted into the front panel before shoulder close.

  • 4-thread overlock — main seams, 4.0 SPI (stitches per inch).
  • Cover-stitch — hem and pocket top-edge for a flat, stretchy finish.
  • Bar-tacks — pocket corners, hood eyelet reinforcement, drawcord ends.

Stage 5 — hood construction

2-panel hoods have a centre seam running crown to nape; 3-panel hoods add a gusset for a rounder drape and better shape retention. Metal or plastic eyelets punch through both hood layers, and a flat drawcord (6–8mm cotton or polyester) threads through the channel.

Stage 6 — hood attach & ribbing

Hood attaches to the neckline with a bound seam covered by a 1cm neck tape (self-fabric or contrast twill). Ribbed cuffs and hem — 2x2 or 2x1 rib with 3–5% elastane — attach with a cover-stitch. Zip-ups get their YKK zipper installed at this stage.

Stage 7 — trim & press

Every hoodie goes through a thread-trim station and a steam form-press. Main label, size label and care label (already sewn in earlier) are checked. Hangtags attach with a plastic barb or a cotton string.

Stage 8 — QC & pack

Pre-shipment AQL 2.5 inspection: measurement audit against tech pack tolerances, colour match to lab dip, seam strength spot-check, zipper cycle, no needle contamination. Passed units fold onto a card, drop into a polybag, and pack into export cartons (12–24 pcs per carton depending on GSM).

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