Manufacturing · Hoodie Encyclopedia
Hood Construction
The hood is the piece that makes a hoodie a hoodie. Two panels or three, gusset or no gusset, metal eyelets or self-fabric — every choice shows up in how the hood drapes flat against the back and stands up over the head.
2-panel hood
Two mirrored panels join along a centre seam running from nape to front edge. It's the standard hood construction — fast to sew, low cost, but the seam sits directly over the crown so it shows on plain colourways and stitches under decoration.
- Best for: fashion hoodies, promo runs, budget builds.
- Seam: 4-thread overlock, taped inside for premium builds.
- Drape: flatter against the back, less structured over the head.
3-panel hood
Two side panels plus a centre crown gusset. The gusset is a curved strip 6–8cm wide that runs the length of the hood, adding depth and letting the hood sit round when pulled up. This is the streetwear-grade hood construction.
- Best for: heavyweight fleece, premium streetwear, oversized fits.
- Adds ~25% more fabric to the hood but pays back in shape.
- Two seams instead of one — reads as an intentional design detail.
Eyelets — metal, plastic or none
| Type | Size | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Metal grommet | 4–5mm ID | Antique brass / nickel / matte black; catches on wash cycles but premium look |
| Plastic grommet | 5–6mm ID | Cheap, colour-matched, occasionally cracks after 20+ washes |
| Stitched buttonhole | 4mm | No hardware — cleaner minimalist look; adds sewing time |
| Concealed (blind) | n/a | Drawcord exits through a seam gap; no eyelet visible at all |
Drawcord specs
- Flat cord — 6–8mm width, cotton or polyester, the streetwear default.
- Round cord — 4–5mm diameter, sportier and cheaper, easier to knot.
- Ends — heat-sealed (poly), knotted, or metal / plastic aglets.
- Length — total hood circumference + 25cm so both ends hang cleanly.
Common pitfalls
- Under-sized hood opening — hood won't fit over a head with a beanie under it. Minimum 28cm at the neckline.
- Off-centre eyelets — the two eyelets must be equidistant from the centre or the drawcord hangs crooked.
- Drawcord too short — ends disappear inside the channel after 3 wears. Add 25cm to your first estimate.
- No hood facing on premium builds — the raw seam allowance shows when the hood folds back.
Building a hoodie range?
We'll pattern a 3-panel gusseted hood and press a PP sample within 3 weeks.