Fabrics & GSM · Hoodie Encyclopedia
French Terry vs Brushed Fleece
The two fabrics behind almost every cotton hoodie on the shelf. Same yarn, same loom principle — one gets brushed on the inside, the other stays loopback. That single finishing step decides warmth, drape, decoration and price.
French terry (loopback)
Knit on a circular loom with a face of smooth jersey and an interior of unbrushed loops — visible little rings on the inside. The loops trap some air (warm-ish) but not as much as a brushed nap, so terry is the lighter, more breathable option. Great for spring-weight hoodies and heavier tees.
- Interior texture: visible small loops; slightly bumpy under the hand.
- GSM sweet-spot: 240–320 for hoodies, 320–400 for heavier terry hoodies.
- Best for: layering, transitional weather, softer drape, print-friendly face.
Brushed fleece
Same construction as terry, then run through a wire-brush cylinder that lifts and cuts the interior loops into a soft nap. That nap traps a thick layer of air — the reason a brushed hoodie feels warm the moment you put it on. Weight-for-weight brushed fleece is warmer than terry.
- Interior texture: soft, uniform nap; almost velvet-feeling.
- GSM sweet-spot: 320–500 for winter and streetwear hoodies.
- Best for: warmth, oversized fits, streetwear, cold-weather zip-ups.
Direct comparison
| Property | French terry | Brushed fleece |
|---|---|---|
| Warmth | Moderate | High |
| Weight-for-warmth | Efficient (less warmth per gsm) | Higher warmth per gsm |
| Drape | Softer, more fluid | Stiffer, more structured |
| Print-face | Excellent (smooth) | Excellent (smooth outside) |
| Pilling risk | Low | Higher (brushed nap pills first) |
| Cost delta | Baseline | +5–8% (extra finishing step) |
| Best silhouette | Athletic, cropped, spring | Oversized, streetwear, winter |
GSM guidance
- 240–280 GSM — lightweight terry; spring hoodies, layering, women's cuts.
- 300–350 GSM — mid-weight; everyday hoodies in either terry or brushed.
- 380–420 GSM — heavier hoodies; brushed fleece territory.
- 450–500 GSM — heavyweight streetwear; almost always brushed.
How to pick
- Athletic / transitional / softer drape → French terry, 280–350 GSM.
- Streetwear / winter / oversized → brushed fleece, 380–500 GSM.
- Print-heavy hoodie → either works; both have smooth faces.
- Sustainable range → both come in GOTS organic and rPET blends.
Not sure which fabric to spec?
We'll send a swatch card with both fabrics across the GSM range within 10 days.