Decoration · Cap Encyclopedia
Flat Embroidery on Caps
Flat embroidery is still the workhorse of cap decoration — cleaner detail than puff, longer-lasting than screen print, and available at almost any MOQ. It rewards good digitising and punishes rushed artwork. This is the spec sheet.
Stitch types
Satin / fill / run
Combined per artwork
Density
0.40–0.50mm
Standard satin spacing
Thread
Polyester 40wt
Rayon on premium
Detail
1.2mm strokes
Minimum readable stroke
What flat embroidery actually is
Flat embroidery is stitched directly onto the panel with no foam underlay. A digitiser converts artwork into machine paths — underlay first, then satin, fill and run stitches to build the final logo. The result sits flush with the crown and shows fine detail that puff can't hold.
Density — the single most important spec
- Satin stitch: 0.40–0.50mm spacing on cap crowns. Tighter than 0.35mm and the fabric puckers; looser than 0.55mm and the panel colour shows through.
- Fill stitch: 0.45mm standard, with an alternating direction on adjacent blocks to prevent gloss lines.
- Underlay: always required on a cap — a zigzag or edge-walk underlay stabilises the panel before the top stitch runs.
- Backing: cut-away non-woven, 60gsm, on structured crowns. Tear-away on soft crowns only.
Thread choice
- Polyester 40wt — the industry default. UV-stable, wash-fast, bleach-resistant. Right choice for 95% of programmes.
- Rayon 40wt — softer sheen, richer colour. Use for premium fashion caps that never see harsh laundry.
- Metallic — supporting accents only. Never run a full logo in metallic; the thread shreds at cap-machine speeds.
- Colour matching: request a Pantone match card and confirm on the actual crown fabric — thread sheen shifts perceived colour.
Design rules
- Minimum stroke width: 1.2mm — thinner strokes drop stitches on a curved crown.
- Minimum type height: 4mm for sans-serif, 6mm for serif. Below that, letters fill in.
- Colour count: 6–8 colours is the practical ceiling per logo. Each colour is a thread change on the multi-head.
- Avoid photographic gradients — flat embroidery is not screen print. Use flat colour blocks.
- Small counters (holes in letters like 'a', 'e', 'o') need at least 1.5mm of clear space or they fill in.
Flat vs puff vs patch — when to pick flat
| Decoration | Best for | Detail limit |
|---|---|---|
| Flat embroidery | Detailed logos, wordmarks, small type | 1.2mm strokes |
| 3D puff | Bold statement marks, no fine detail | 4mm strokes |
| Woven patch | Ultra-fine detail, small type below 4mm | 0.5mm woven |
| PVC patch | Bold shapes, 2D/3D relief branding | Moulded |
Cost drivers
- Stitch count — the direct input to embroidery cost. A tight small logo can hit 8,000 stitches; a full crest 25,000+.
- Colour changes — each thread change adds machine time. Consolidate similar shades.
- Position — front-panel is standard; side and back panels add hooping steps and cost.
- MOQ: no hard minimum; sampling and small runs (50–100) are common. Efficient bulk starts at 300+.
Common pitfalls
- Sending a raster JPG and expecting exact colour — always supply vector AI/PDF plus Pantone references.
- Skipping the sew-out — always approve a physical strike-off on the actual crown fabric before bulk.
- Over-dense digitising on cotton twill — needle holes tear the fabric under tension.
- Ignoring seam allowances — a logo that centres in artwork can sit off-centre once the crown assembles.
Send us your artwork for a stitch-count quote
Vector art plus Pantone references — we'll return a digitised file and a strike-off on your crown fabric.